Not a great start to the day as our carefully arranged plans for storing our extra two bags fell to pieces when the hotel reneged on its previously confirmed undertaking to take them. As we were only allowed to take one bag each on the tour we were in a bit of a panic.
Fortunately Emmy, our Back Roads tour guide, saved the day. As there were only 15 people on the tour she was able to squeeze them in the baggage hold. So off we set on our 7 day Back Roads adventures to explore the wilds of darkest Cornwall.

Our little bus really squeezed down the English country lanes as we headed to our first stop of the day at the market town of Marlborough. Amazingly it was market day when we arrived and the allegedly widest High Street in England was filled with market stalls and people.

Our next stop was the town of Wells with its magnificent Cathedral,

Vicars’ Close, the only existing intact medieval street in England,

And the amazing Bishop’s Palace which is in fact a Castle of considerable size. We had a lovely lunch at Goodfellows Restaurant then back on the bus as we headed for Dartmoor National Park.
Our route took us through incredibly cute little villages. The directors of Midsummer Murders would have no trouble finding locations here. Despite the very dry and hot summer they are experiencing, the countryside was very beautiful and we were particularly taken by the massed displays of Hydrangeas which seemed to grow like weeds in many locations.
Finally, after crossing a narrow bridge which was about 3 inches wider than our little bus, we made it into the Dartmoor National Park, stomping ground of Sherlock Holmes’ hound of the Baskervilles.
Now English National Parks are considerably different from Australian ones. To my untrained eye it was hard to distinguish the National Park from the country surrounding it. There are private houses, farms, fences etc just like outside the park’s boundary. In the middle however was a large unfenced bit filled with Dartmoor ponies, sheep and cattle all mixed in together and all privately owned.

The land here is covered with rocks, heavily grazed grass; horse, sheep and cattle droppings and Gorse bushes. Apparently back in the Bronze Age it was covered with Oaks. I reckon they should have a go at replanting it with trees. It would look fantastic in a couple of hundred years.

Our overnight stop was in the middle of the National Park at the Two Bridges Hotel deep in the Moors. The land here is apparently owned by Prince Charles who leases it to the hotel. It was a quaint, quirky place full of dark panelling with loads of copper and brass all polished to within an inch of its life. The hotel staff were very friendly, our room was very comfortable and the food was great.

They had a herd of around eight geese which populated the front of the hotel and who, as the sun set with a rather chilly wind blowing, settled down for the night in the middle of the bitumen area at the front of the hotel. On the following morning I watched the groundsman feeding them which involved a ritual which I am sure must be repeated daily. The groundsman headed to his shed and came out with a bucket of food. The geese lined up and the head goose had a feed from the bucket. The groundsman walked down to the lower lawn, the head goose and four others followed, and three stayed behind. The groundsman scattered the food on the lower lawn which this party ate, then he came back up and scattered food on the top lawn, which two of the three remaining geese ate, while the very last goose had his breakfast out of the bucket.







