Our first stop of the morning was the little coastal village of Polperro. It showcased all the usual features of a small Cornish fishing village: winding narrow streets, tiny quaint houses and aggressive seagulls. One unique feature was a very interesting little museum on the maritime history of the village which seemed to revolve mainly around smuggling and pilchard fishing.
Apparently a favourite spot for hiding the smuggled goods was in the church yard. This practice was aided by the Vicar who was thought by the authorities to be slightly unhinged for what they believed to be his practice of carrying out night exorcisms in the church yard . This was in fact him relocating smuggled goods.
We then said a fond farewell to Cornwall and headed into Devon stopping at the Abbey of Buckfast. This is a currently operating Benedictine monastery which amongst other things produces a caffeinated fortified wine tonic called “Buckfast” which somewhat unfortunately has gained a considerable following amongst hardened drinkers in Scotland.
The Abbey was founded during the reign of King Canute and destroyed during the reign of Henry the Eighth. In the 19th Century it was a woollen mill and the owner built a mansion using some of the ruined Abbey. In the latter part of the 19th Century, two things happened, firstly the mill fell into disuse and the property was put up for sale. Secondly the French in 1880 had passed a law outlawing religious orders from operating in that county.
A wealthy Englishman who wanted to see a religious order return to the site purchased the land and gave it to the displaced French Benedictines. Starting with one monk who was a stone mason, five other unskilled monks, a borrowed horse and cart and a capital of five pounds, over the following 33 years the six of them, assisted by some stone finishers, built the magnificent Abbey that stands there today. It is just a truly amazing feat.
Our final stop of the day was the holiday resort of Lyme Regis. The day was very hot and the place was absolutely packed, mostly with fat sunburned British holiday makers. We were rather glad to get back on the bus and head to our accommodation for the night.
Today the temperature had reached 33c and our hotel, while visually attractive, unfortunately has no air condition and our room is like an oven: -Shades of the hot box in Bridge over the River Kwai.
This was our final night of our Back-Roads Tour and everyone was rather sad
Hardys’ Travels 